Staying high in the Andes, we spent the day at la Hacienda El Bosque.
From The Andean Birder, ” Hacienda El Bosque is a must-visit destination for any birdwatcher exploring the Central Andes of Colombia. This cattle ranch simultaneously protects extensive high Andean forest areas through a conservation model known as a civil society natural reserve. This reserve is sanctioned by Colombian law and is part of the country’s national system of protected areas.”
And they have antpittas!
I’m so close! I have one more day to blog about. It’s hard to pick a best day out of the trip, but exploring the páramo ecosystem and embarking on one final epic bird chase MAY land this final day as the best!
Considerable time has elapsed since my last post about Colombia. Let’s see if I can wrap this up in one final post. Let’s see if I can knock out a few more posts to close up this incredible trip.
July 28, 2023, was a FOUR-antipitta species day! After leaving Tinamou, we headed to Río Blanco Nature Reserve (just outside Manizales).
Ask anyone who has travelled with me, and they’ll tell you my number one concern (and sometimes my only concern) is the next morning’s coffee availability. And bless their hearts, Colombia is the world’s third-largest coffee producer (growing 100% Coffea arabica). Our birding trip, though very bird-forward, included an afternoon tour of a local coffee plantation at the Hacienda Venecia Coffee Lodge just outside Manizales.
And wow, I thought I could squeeze another day into this post, but July 28 involved at least three species of antipittas, and that’s going to need its own post.
Antpittas are secretive forest birds. “Eggs on sticks” they are often called. There are more than 60 species of antpittas in the world, and they all live in Central and/or South America. Most species specialize in eating (and following!) ants, as their family name Formicariidae implies (Formica = ant).
For years, antpittas were highly sought after by birders (and still are), but up until recently, antpittas were some of the trickiest birds to find and SEE. Recently, locals in Colombia and Ecuador figured out how to lure these birds out into a forest opening or edge, just temporarily, with worms. Once they figured this out, they started calling to the antpittas, and the birds learned their voices and words and started associated them with the worms. The third trick was timing. The “antpittas whisperers” figured out that in order to seal the deal “on the regular,” they had to visit the antpittas at the same time each day. Rinse. Repeat. During this trip, we had several “antpitta appointments” to attend.
To everyone’s surprise, this Chamí Antpitta and I share the same given name. Not knowing this at the time, the antpitta whisperer started calling out “Linda, Linda, Linda” to which I replied “Aquí!”
Antpittas often don’t come out right away when called, and this being my first antpitta, I wasn’t sure what to expect. But, when Linda popped out of the forest floor on stage left, I almost stopped breathing. Also worth noting is that the Chamí Antpitta is endemic to Colombia.
At this point I thought I might have been hallucinating. The Chestnut-naped Antpitta is found in Colombia and Peru.
Up next: a coffee plantation tour and more antpitta appointments!
My July 2023 Birding By Bus (BBB) tour of the Central Andes of Colombia was my first organized, international birding tour. It was SO wonderful that I think I might follow BBB all over the planet. If they are going, I’m going. Admittedly, this was probably the perfect first trip with BBB since Eliana (one half of BBB) is from Colombia, and her enthusiasm for birds is equal to that of her beautiful country.
A note about the birds before we dive in:
Colombia has approximately 20% of Earth’s bird diversity translating into ~1,960 species of birds. I saw at least 200 new bird species (eBird checklist edits pending) on this trip. Mucho lifers and mucho lifer dances! I felt like a new birder again, not to mention that many of the bird common names “down here” seem to be autogenerated by an overactive AI system. If you had told me we were going to see a Crescent-collared Buffy-rumped Warbler Sparrow-Tyrant, I would have put down my Pony pop, nodded, and said “ok let’s get it!”
My birdy highlights were the White-capped Dipper, the many many species of antpittas, and (spoiler alert) the Buffy Helmetcrest. Visiting the high-Andes Páramo ecosystem and walking around the tall frailejones (giant Asteraceae subshrubs) were also a delight.
So, let’s get started. This will be the first of at least four posts. I promise there will be more bird photos in the future posts. It took me some time to get used to my camera’s limitation. Eliana from BBB also took photographs of us, and a few of these are hers.
Medellin is the second-largest city in Colombia. If you know about Colombia’s history, you’ve likely heard of Medellin. This city is now a thriving, modern, metropolitan city with anything you’d see/expect in a large American or Canadian city. We walked 10 miles through Medellin that day and then met up with our tour group that evening.
When we were not birding, we were eating (or sleeping). The food was great and continuous 🙂 BBB ensured we had three full meals a day and plenty of snacks and filtered water in between. I’m not sure why I packed NINE protein bars, but I’m leaving them home next time. Also, our crew included two vegans and a few vegetarians (include me and C). This was not an issue whatsoever. Eliana ensured we sin carne kids were well taken care of. Eliana was also justifiably enthusiastic about her country’s deserts/snacks/fruits and surprised us with things like granadilla fruit, buñuelos, and obleas. Hot chocolate was also VERY common in Colombia and appears to be consumed on the regular. I partook at every opportunity I had. Most meals were served with a side of arepas, rice, beans, and a firm/crumbly cheese. Colombian beans are HUGE and really tasty. I also discovered huevos paricos, a simple scrambled egg mixture with green onions and tomatoes. Served with, of course, arepas.
We had a great group of mixed ages. I made some fabulous new friends, and saying goodbye to them and to Eliana and Diego at the end of the trip was so hard! I hope to keep in touch with a handful of new friends and see them in the future. I’ve also been in a consistently positive mood since the trip, despite being back to my rather formulaic lifestyle.
It rarely snows in Raleigh, North Carolina. It’s “the south” after all. When we moved here last October from the Pacific Northwest, we received a variety of winter tales from North Carolina locals and transplants. It gets cold. But not too cold. Highs in the 50s. Highs in the 40s. It can freeze at night. 60s sometimes. Rarely snow. No snow. Rains a bit. Honestly, I was just glad to not have to suffer another rainy winter in the Pacific Northwest.*
Our Raleigh winter started off really warm and stayed that way. It was really nice. We saw many 70-degree days in December, and I started to think that sitting on our front porch would be a year-round, daily activity. Winter finally showed up in Raleigh earlier this month, and I grudgingly went into the shed to get my bin of winter outdoor layers. Then, we had a winter storm watch, which materialized into freezing rain. This past weekend, we had another winter storm watch, which materialized into snow.
I love warm weather, but I also love snow. I took many photos of our house and the snow like it had been my first time experiencing snow (I am from Ontario, Canada). Here’s a little snowy slide show of our cute new-to-us house and property! It’s close to downtown Raleigh. It was built in the late 1800s and was in the previous owner’s family since 1907. We love it.
I was surprised we got this much snow! It covered the grass, so I give it 3.5 stars. I went outside post-coffee to take some morning snow shots and made sure my birds had plenty of seed. After stuffing my face with blueberry pancakes, I spent my morning taking photos of the birds stuffing their faces with seed.
And perhaps yes, sitting on our front porch can be a year-round, daily activity, as long as I’m dressed for it. I mean there’s no such thing as “bad” weather right? Just “bad” clothing.
* I do miss the PNW though. I loved living there. I miss my friends and neighbours; the giant doug-firs; topography; and the Varied Thrushes, Bushtits, and American Dippers.
This morning, after I got back from my morning forest run, I noticed movement in the tops of one of the Douglas-fir trees in our backyard. My first thought was “Crossbills!?” My second thought was “No, it cannot be.” The birds were very backlit, but their behaviour (voraciously eating seeds from the doug-fir cones), body size, flock size, and body placement while feeding all pointed to crossbills. I still wasn’t convinced until I finally saw a good outline of a bill, and it was crossed. It was CRISSCROSSED BILL.
Not thinking I’d have any luck at all getting photographs, I spent several minutes warbler-necking it in my backyard and simply watching them feed way up high. I haven’t had a new yard bird in many many months. In fact, I could not remember which number I was at. Apparently I’m now at bird #87.
The crossbills stuck around for more than 30 minutes, and after enjoying them through my bins for awhile, I thought I’d at least try to get a photo, even if it was a crappy photo that simply showed a bird’s silhouette. I actually wasn’t sure if the sighting would trigger a rare bird alert, and photos are always appreciated for those.
So I went inside and took some photos from my upstairs office window, and a few of them are not awful. Oh, and it’s Global Big Day, so this sighting seems fitting 🙂
I’m still hoping for my first Bullock’s Oriole to visit my yard. I’ve got grape jelly in a feeder, and I have seen this species w/in 5 miles of my house. Somebody also saw one today in Lacamas Park, which is less than 1 mile from my house. I remain optimistic.
Stay tuned for a post about April birding in the Olympic Peninsula!
With the train wreck of events that are and have been taking place these past several months, I have not been impelled to write or post. So, what brings me back?
I’m a volunteer editor for the Oregon Birding Association, and our fall journal was just published! I include a URL to my blog in my “Letter from the Editor”, so I may have visitors. What do you do when you visit somebody’s blog and they have not updated it in several months? You probably never visit again. So … I wanted to light a small fire under my blog because my blog is about birding and I am still always birding. It’s not like I don’t have content and photos to share. I could probably post daily.
Let’s start with some recent photos. I’m in Ontario, Canada, now visiting my family, so here are some of the highlights from this trip so far : ) Note that this post is a bit “drafty” because I don’t have strong enough WiFi here to slave over this.
In light of recent events keeping us at or close to home, starting on March 24, 2020, I started a quarantine yard list as part of a challenge kicked off by 5MR Jen. Even though no cloud of any sort has truly lifted (e.g., we are still staying close to home), that yard challenge ended yesterday, April 30, 2020.
I ended with 62 species of birds on my quarantine yard list and a total ongoing yard count of 80 species. I even managed to summon a Western Tanager yesterday morning, species #80 for my yard and my final species for this yard challenge! I found it in the lower part of the canopy in one of our Doug-fir trees.
This was a rewarding time of the year to participate in this challenge because bird species are coming and going. During this window of time, I said goodbye to the Dark-eyed Juncos and Varied Thrushes and hello to the Black-headed Grosbeaks, Ospreys, and Yellow-rumped Warblers.
What follows are some yard bird photos from this final week. My quarantine yard list is at the end of this blog post. The ongoing yard list continues though! And May 9 is the eBird Global Big Day!
Our yard continues to yield new “quarantine” bird species almost every day. A few of these have been new yard species, too. We have been at this location for almost 1 year.
Yesterday on the way back from my daily morning coffee walk around my neighborhood, I saw a Chipping Sparrow in our next-door neighbour’s flowering dogwood tree. I slowly walked past the tree and onto our driveway. Chipper was still in the tree! Bam! Yard bird #78! Sadly I have no photograph of Chipper because I don’t bring such luxuries as a camera on my morning coffee walk. I’m fresh out of bed and usually in my PJs.
Last weekend, a new and quite surprising yard bird, a Greater Yellowlegs, flew along Lacamas Creek and wadded around long enough for me to get a few terrible photos from my office window.
Other highlights from this past week included my yard’s second Lincoln’s Sparrow and yard’s first Brown-headed Cowbird.
As of yesterday, my total yard count is at 79 species and my quarantine list is at 58 species.
Here is a photo blog update of some of the birdy highlights, new and old, from our yard over the past week and a half.